Challenging Gardening Laws #1

Let me begin by saying I am a college educated, extension agency trained, Virginia Certified Horticulturist, International Society of Arboriculture Certified Arborist, licensed Commercial Pesticide Applicator, Virginia Licensed Contractor and experienced horticulturist of 15 years.

Now that all that self aggrandizing is over with, I will tell you that I have been schooled in the "correct" way to do things for a long time.  I kind of did it backwards though.  I was in this field for a long time before I realized this is exactly what I wanted to do with my life.  It was that, coupled with a career ending layoff in a different field, that led me to getting serious about horticulture and pursuing higher education.

The benefit of that is that I have had unbiased observations of plant habits without the "intrusion" of ideas that can be contrary to the real life situations that we find ourselves in.

That being said, I will say that the extension agency is the best source of information out there.  Their recommended practices are backed up by extensive proven research under university conditions.  My professors at school were usually involved in the field as well, only teaching at night after a day's work. Be wary of random people on the internet (like me, I suppose…) that will tell you that there is only one proper way to do things, and you will face disaster if you vary from the course.

However, my own observations would say that there can be different sides to every story.

That is what this series will be all about.  I have seen a few things this year that run somewhat contrary to established practices that I learned.  I hope the take away lesson from these posts will be that you should try different things to figure out what works best in your own individual situation.  Be adventurous!  Don't be scared to try new things.


CASE #1
SPRING TURF FERTILIZATION

This may be the most "controversial" topic I will discuss here.  There is a huge doctrine dispute between commercial turf care and university research (extension agency) here.

Extension agency recommendations will tell you never to spring fertilize, as the turf will grow to fast for existing root mass leading to summer stress. Also, excess fertilizer applications lead to increased nutrient runoff into waterways.

Commercial lawn care companies and TV commercials will tell you that there is no such thing as a bad time to fertilize and have funny Scottish guys telling you that you are an inhumane beast if you starve your lawn to death in the spring.

Is there a middle ground?  There usually is in most cases.

Undoubtedly, the fall is the absolute best time for turf fertilization (of cool season grasses, such as fescue.  Warm season grasses, i.e. those that brown out in the winter get treated in the summer.) During this time, the plants shift focus and begin to move nutrients down into the roots, to be stored for upcoming spring growth.  When you fertilize at this time, much of the nutrients are absorbed into the roots, rather than triggering excessive top growth.

However…..

This is a picture taken in early spring of the lawn next to the Rose Garden at Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden, that I manage.  You will notice the definite border of light green and dark green grass.    

The reason for the difference is that there was a display taking up the middle part of the lawn, and the lawn crew could not fertilize under it.  

So, obviously, spring fertilization has it's benefits, at least in greening up.  When I did commercial lawn care many moons ago, I used to add in a little half-dose of nitrogen mixed in with the pre-emergent I applied.  

While there may be some slight disadvantages to adding nitrogen in the spring, as stated above, I believe the advantages outweigh the possible problems.  

The biggest advantage is growth.  The number one problem with turf is bare spots.  Weeds love bare spots.  If you have bare spots in the lawn, I guarantee it will be filled with something you don't want to be there, probably crabgrass in the summer and bittercress in the winter.  

The best preventer of weeds in a lawn is a dense, thick grass cover.  

I would rather add a little nitrogen here and there, and other products designed to make things grow, than constantly be using products that are designed to kill things.  

Now, don't go throwing nutrients at your lawn by the ton, because then you will certainly be causing more problems than you are solving.  

Get a soil sample, know what your soil needs, address any deficiencies first.  

Just don't be scared to add a little nitrogen in the spring.

My two cents on the situation.

Jay

Pallet Gardens

The other day, a client of mine called me up and asked if I could make her a pallet garden.  I was hesitant at first, as I had never made one before.  I decided we should form a partnership instead of hiring me to make it for her, so in case the project was not successful, there would be no foul.

I did some internet research, and spoke to a few friends who had attempted this type of project before.  I figured it would be a fun project to try, so we went for it.

The first step is acquiring a pallet.  This should not be too hard to accomplish.  I happened to have a few lying around from various stone and sod jobs that I have done.  You can probably find one at any big box store or nursery.  I am not sure exactly what they do with them when they are unloaded and stacked up, but I would be certain that they just dispose of them in some way.  They may even have to pay for the disposal, so they may be happy for you to take a few.  The better condition the pallet is in, the better of you will be.

The second step would be to buy some plants.  I was advised that the bigger the plant is, the better off the garden will be.  So I had 4" pots in mind.  I used primarily annual plants for this one, but next one I may use more perennials.  Succulents would probably work quite well.  In fact, that is the next project in the works.  So I went to the nursery, and picked out a bunch of plants that looked good together.  I ended up with a selection of coleus, begonias, a few hostas, and other annuals that would do well in the shade that this pallet would be in.

Now it is time for the hardware of the project.  First you will need a roll of landscape fabric to hold the soil in place.  Also known as weed barrier, this fabric will hold the soil, while allowing water to drain through.  You will also need a staple gun and many, many staples.  I used 3/8" staples that seemed to work.  The bigger the better in my opinion. Just do not go shorter than 3/8", or you risk them pulling out.

We then began assembly.  As you can see, the top and bottom boards are doubled up.  We removed those boards, and also removed every other board after that, making larger spaces for the plants and making the stapling easier.

As you can see, rather than simply packing the entire pallet with soil, we made individual pockets at each level.  This way, the soil is contained nicely.  I think if you had one unit, the water and soil would be apt to migrate down to the bottom, possibly collapsing the whole thing.

We used many staples to hold the fabric to the wood.  It was a little tricky, but my wonderful client did a tremendous job of getting the pockets sealed so no soil leaked out.  We actually got it right (I think, long term results will be the subject of a later post) the first time.

Another progress shot.  As we packed the plants in, we also packed potting soil all around.  I think this is the critical step.  If there are gaps and voids all around the plant's root balls, then they will not be able to put roots out, and more importantly will dry out very quick.  So make sure the pockets are pretty stuffed with soil.  

Here is the final product.  I was pretty surprised with how easy this actually was to make.  In the future, the plants should all fill in and really look like a garden.  Depending on the plants you select, the cost will come in anywhere from $100-$150 or so.  A few notes:  we wrapped the back of the pallet in a double layer of fabric to keep it neat and tidy.  This step should also help slow down evaporation.  If the pallet will be on a wall, I recommend a layer of heavy plastic also, to keep the wall from getting funky.  Water will make or break the success of this project.  I would be sure that the soil will want to dry out about every day.  I would plan on watering this once a day at least, more so if yours will be in direct sun.  Use a very light spray.  The mist setting on a selectable hose end sprayer is the best, as it will not wash out the soil.

This pallet and another one to be made will be the final touch to this yard project.  This yard was in fairly rough shape when I first saw it (sorry LK!).  Nothing but weeds throughout.  I added a gravel patio, raised vegetable beds, and pollinator friendly perennials throughout.  The pallets will hang on either side of the window on the blank white walls.  This will be the final touch to a wonderful transformation!

Questions and comments are always appreciated!

Thanks,

Jay

The Case Against Tree Staking

Staking is the last step of planting a tree, isn't it?   Many professional landscapers believe it, so how could it be wrong?

Trees need to move.  Trees react to stresses put upon them.  When a tree moves around, it knows that it needs to grow roots in order to stay upright and live.

The tree will also add wood to the lower part of the tree in order to strengthen itself against disturbance, thus creating a nice tapered trunk.

When a tree is shackled tightly to the ground, it does not move, so it will not feel the stresses placed upon it.  Without those stresses, there will not be any corrective growth, and the tree will be very slow to establish itself, thus needing more support. Get it...the more support you give, the more it needs (I could draw many correlations to parenting there, but you get the point..)

Adding insult to injury, most landscapers will move on and not return to remove the ties around the tree.  Ever seen this?

This is what happens.  This poor specimen is slowly choking on those green ties.  The bulges are where water and nutrients could not pass, and just caused growth there.  This tree will die.  Most likely this upcoming summer, when the upper crown will not be able to take up as much water as it needs.  

If this tree is lucky enough to survive a few more years, the next hurricane will cause this to break on that weak narrow point where the ties are.  Either way.....

If you must stake a tree down (poor root system, very loose soil, etc) then do the tree a favor and use wide strap like ties and not narrow wire.  Tie it loosely, as the idea is to enable it to move, but not far enough to tip over.  Then make sure to take them off the next year.

See you next time,

Jay

Spring has finally Sprung!

After this long, and arguably miserable winter, Spring has finally arrived.

I happened to come across my favorite spring blooming woodland wildflower (fairly narrow niche, I know...) Sanguinaria canadensis (bloodroot).

This native wildflower blooms now (late march/early april) with the distinctive white daisy-like flower. After the blooms fade, the seed pods develop.  When ripe, the pods pop open, expelling the seeds inside for many feet in all directions.  

The seeds are roundish, with a raised white band around the circumference.  It is believed that ants are fooled into thinking that it is a small worm, and they take the seeds down into their tunnels, in effect planting them.  

In its preferred location (well drained woodsy soil with dappled sun)  bloodroot will form dense colonies, providing nice early season interest.

Girdling Roots

With all this snow, ice, and very low temperatures we have been experiencing this winter, it is hard to imagine that spring will ever come.

Don't worry. It will.

And when milder weather approaches, gardeners will flock to the nurseries like people rushing to the grocery store to buy milk and bread before a snow storm, buying anything and everything that is in bloom at that time.

There is nothing wrong with that.  After a long winter's slumber, there is nothing better than getting out there and planting a few new shrubs and trees that we have been thinking about, or simply catch our eye.

But one word of caution here:  be a careful consumer.

The nurseries know that they will face an onslaught of customers as soon as spring hits.  They will have everything with flowers on it out for sale.  In their rush to market their plants, some not-so-good specimens will make the cut and get put out for sale.  I know this because I see it, and also because I used to work at a nursery where they grew their own trees and shrubs, dug them themselves, and sold them.  I would see a sub-par specimen, and question it.  "Don't worry...it will sell. If it is blooming, it will sell."

True enough, but what happens later?  In that example I am referring to, the problem was co-dominant stems, which I will discuss in a later post, but there is another huge problem in the industry, Stem Girdling Roots.

In container grown trees and shrubs, the roots grow outward, then hit the container wall.  There is nowhere else to go but around.  And around. And around.  And when the nursery decides to step up the pot from a one gallon to a three gallon, they usually will not break up the circling roots and just throw soil around the root ball.

These circling roots then get hidden from view.  If you pop out that three gallon rootball, you will probably see soil with fine roots throughout, and not the circling mess underneath.  And then it goes to a five gallon, seven gallon, 15 gallon, etc.

Eventually, those circling roots will grow around the trunk of the tree, cutting off the circulation throughout.

You can also get a girdling root situation if you pile mulch up around the tree and shrub trunks.  The tree will put roots out into the mulch, and these roots will grow over top of the existing roots, eventually cutting off their circulation.  You all have seen this at shopping centers and malls.  Just look for the "mulch volcano" trees with gaps up and down the line to see what the long term effects are.

Here is an example:

I bought this red bud from my local nursery as part of a lot for a clients yard.  This was part of a larger delivery.  If I had selected the plants myself, this one would have stayed at the nursery.  See that root going around the trunk?  Imagine when the trunk and root have grown for 10 more years?  Problem.  I decided to have a look further.

You can see the root wrapping around the trunk, but there is also a good sized root that has been growing down the sides of the container.  That is not necessarily very bad, but should be addressed also.

Here I have cut the stem girdling root off at the trunk, and also cut off the downward growing portion of that larger root.  Problem solved.  This would have been better off rejected, but these issues can be dealt with.

The problem is that these issues would not make themselves apparent for 10-15 years.  At that point there is really nothing that can be done.

So when you looking for plants, a little inspection goes a long way.  I also recommend washing the soil off of the containerized root balls.  Rough them up.  Do anything you can to inspect the roots.  Do not just pop them in the ground out of the pot.  You will do yourself and the plant a great deal of good.

Winter Garden Preparation

Now that winter is about upon us, what is there to do in the garden?  If your garden looks anything like mine, I would say plenty.

Most perennials have run their course, trees have dropped their leaves, and temperatures are consistently dropping below the freezing point.

Most perennials can be cut back now, removing all the ratty, blackened foliage.  I usually cut them back to an inch or two above the ground level.  This was you can remember where they are come mulching time.  For perennials that have seed heads still attached, consider leaving them be.  Purple coneflowers, black eyed susans, and other aster family members come to mind here.  These plants are a valuable source of food for birds in the winter.  Also, I love to watch the goldfinches fly around on a cold day from the comfort of my sunroom.

If you usually bag up your leaves, I would encourage you to take a new approach.  While I agree that raw leaf cover is not really visually appealing in a typical landscape, there is really no reason why they still cannot be utilized.  I rake or blow the leaves out of the bed areas, and then run over them several times with the mower with a bagger.  Then simply apply the shredded leaves as mulch around the shrubs and trees.  The shredded leaves will decompose rapidly, and provide a nice soil amendment to our often times heavy clay soil.  The finely shredded leaves will also act as a compost addition to the lawn areas as well.  When mulching time arrives in late winter, simply cover up the shredded leaves and there you go!  A nicely manicured bed with all the natural benefits of preserving the leaves on your property.

Don't neglect your tools this time of year.  While they have a few months of down time, now is a good time to get everything cleaned, organized, and sharpened for next season.  First, clean off all the dirt and grime from everything.  Now it is time to sharpen.  Pruners, loppers and saws are the obvious choice here.  Your local hardware store will be able to sharpen most things you bring them, for a pretty inexpensive price (think Pleasant's, not Lowes here....).  Consider sharpening other things that can benefit from having a nice sharp edge as well.  Hoes, scuffle hoes, and bed edgers come to mind here.  They really do not need a razor edge (and are significantly safer without....), but your jobs will be much easier if they are not completely rounded over.  Unless you do a lot of transplanting, shovels and spades do not need to be sharpened.  I have a transplanting spade that I use to slice through roots cleanly, so I like to keep it fairly sharp to help.  After everything is cleaned and sharpened, put a light coat of some kind of oil to keep them rust free.

These tips should help you get the garden together for a few months of down time while the winter sets in.  It won't be long, however, before it is time to start planning for things to start waking up.  Early spring will be here before you know it!

If you need help with these or any other gardening jobs,  give us a shout!

http://www.get-rvascapes.com

Thanks!

Jay

Sanitize those Pruners!!!!

Do you sanitize your pruners while you are pruning something?  Have you ever?  Do you need to?

My answer would be a resounding yes.

When you cut through a stem that is infected with any type of disease, whether it is a virus, bacterial, or fungal infection, it is likely that your pruners will now be carrying an infectious organism or two.

When you take those pruners to a different part of the shrub, or a different tree altogether, you may introduce said organisms to a new victim.

You may not see evidence of an infection or disease on the plant every time.  Healthy plants will not always succumb to disease pressure.  It takes a triangle of suitable host, correct pathogen, and environmental conditions conducive to the pathogen to create trouble (an upcoming blog topic).  If you have the right plant in the right place, you may never have pest or disease problems.

That being said, as I stated above you may not know that there are pathogens present.  You may take a few spores off a healthy, resistant plant and move them somewhere where they can be more successful in causing trouble.

And if you are pruning roses you had better be sure to disinfect at least between every rose plant.  Rose Rosette Disease (RRD) is a vicious virus-like disease that is quickly wreaking havoc among rose plantings.  This disease is typically transmitted by a microscopic mite invisible to the naked eye.  Wingless, this mite floats around on currents of air, drifting along aimlessly.  If this mite lands on a rose infected with RRD, and then happens to jump off and land on another rose, chances are that rose will be infected.  Seem unlikely?  Not really.  Just look around at any major planting of roses at a commercial establishment or subdivision entrance, and you may very well see it.

I will be posting more on RRD in a later post with a detailed description and pictures. Suffice to say for now that it can be spread through infected pruners, and there is no cure.  The only thing you can do is dig out and throw the plant out.

I use rubbing alcohol every time to sanitize my pruners.  It does the trick, is inexpensive, and harmless to the plant in the amount you will use.   Lysol works as well, but is more expensive and I really don't care for the smell of it.  And whenever I get a cut from a thorn, I just spray it with the rubbing alcohol also!

Never use bleach on your pruners.  While bleach will certainly disinfect, it is also very hard on the metal of your pruners.  Pitting of the metal and rust will be sure to follow an application of bleach to metal.

So just remember to sanitize your pruners at least in between each plant, whether it is a perennial, shrub, tree, whatever.  If you are very concerned, or know you are dealing with an infected plant, it does not hurt to sanitize between each cut.  Rubbing alcohol is cheap, much cheaper than replacing a prized plant.

Thanks for reading,

Jay